Above Waikiki

Anchored by deluxe hotels and the famous shore of Waikiki Beach, Kalakaua Avenue is packed with boutiques like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Tiffany, sprinkled with ABC stores, surf-related shops, and tourist traps. Above the din you might not even notice two of the cooler shops: 88 Tees and Spark.


Like most of the other businesses on the strip, both shops cater to Japanese tourists. However, these places are a little more interesting, mixing vintage American stuff (Spark has a great selection of Snoopy goods, while 88 Tees has the impressive adidas collection) with their own gear. I thought their designy-retro designs would be super expensive, Japanese style, but each sells basic T-shirts for less than 20 bucks.


Walk up and down the street, and you'll see Japanese hipsters walking up the stairs and carrying out shopping bags full of gear, while Euros, visitors from the Midwest, and even locals have no idea that they exist.

Trick or treat

Happy Halloween!

Happy meal

Last breakfast in Waikiki... It was lunch, too, because by the time the Hawaiian Air crew got to our row, they were out of the meatless dish!

Mahalo

I'm going through my tapes and notes from the Hawaii Film Fest, and it was awesome. Where else can you see filmmakers from Taiwan, Korea, Malaysia, India, the Philippines, and the U.S., as well as Norway or Israel? And then there's the hybrid Asian food (not necessarily "fusion"), beautiful beaches and mountains, and great weather. No one can say no to an invite to Honolulu, and neither could I.



Along with friend of GR Anderson Le, Christian is one of the directors. He helped coordinate interviews for the mag and gave me the scoop on movies and places to check out, as well a tour of the projection area (blurry, above). Ian and Chantal did a lot of the legwork to bring you some pretty rad interviews (like Funky Forest's Ishii and Miki, below).



There were some movies that you'll never see anywhere else mixed in with premieres of big ones, like The Banquet with Zhang Ziyi (below) and our homie Dan Wu. All the screenings I attended were packed.


Perhaps the coolest part of the fest is that although it attracts world-class features and filmmakers, it's totally accessible and not just an industry or insider thing. It's locals who sell out screenings and provide an energy that can't be denied. For visitors like me, it's a great way to balance relaxing things like nature and food with cool culture that's alive, vital, and growing. Hope to see you there next year...

Waiola, Round 2

Waiola shave ice is not to be confused with the chunky frozen grains with clown-like rainbow syrup you get from the ice-cream trucks. It's fine, light, and powdery, and Wendy and I had my uncle take us back.

Cone with yogurt (with Calpis poured over)

Mocha bowl (with a Starbucks coffee drink poured over it)

Ice-cream bowl (scoops of vanilla under passion fruit and mango)

Not Squigmond

More local cuisine... Leonard's Bakery is a Waikiki eatery that provides cakes, cookies, and pastries. Founded in 1952, its specialty is the malasada, a hole-less, donut-like creation covered with plain or cinamon sugar. It can be filled with cream, chocolate, pineapple, or other stuff, but we got it plain--hot out of the oven. They're totally addictive, and you can even buy them freshly baked from red-and-white trucks that are parked around the island!

The vintage sign was repainted just a year or so ago.

Olene wants it all even though we just had fresh udon at Jimbo's and shave ice at Waiola.

Desire.

Local malasada gang ready to beat down on haole tourists.

Tilting windmills

Rather new to Hawaii is Don Quijote, which is a Japanese superstore stuffed with everything from toothpaste to Dickies to groceries to electronic goods. We went to buy snacks and a razor. It's totally random in stock and layout, with a mix of low-end stuff (junky souvenirs) to high-end collectibles (a Spider-Man display for thousands of bucks). The parking lot is massive and the lines can be long, but our pal Jeff had a secret check-out spot in the liquor section.



It's kind of like Fry's with its occasional diorama displays. This one has a rainforest, complete with thunder storms and the penguin mascot!

Shrimp on wheels

The famous Giovanni's shrimp truck in Kahuku is parked on the north side of Oahu, not far from a high school that produces scads of NFL players. This grafitti-covered institution sells $12 plates with twelve pieces of crustacean and two scoops of rice. Wendy chose the garlic scampi, and gave it a big thumbs up.

Naive art

Found art from my uncle and aunt's house in Honolulu... Clay works by my cousins when they were little kids! NFS.

New New Hal and Bons

Ishii Katsuhito made a splash in the movie scene with Shark Skin Man and Peach Hip Girl, a rocking gangster flick starring Asano Tadanobu. Since then, Ishii has hopscotched around genres and film styles, doing live-action, traditional animation, and now 3D-CGI. New Hal and Bons is a series of shorts that feature two beer-drinking, shit-talking dogs and a neurotic mochi interviewer. It's surreal and funny.



Thanks to the folks at Hawaii International Film Festival, I got to interview Ichii (who also provides the voice Hal) as well as his buddy Shinichiro Miki (business parter, fellow director, and voice of Mochi). These guys are seriously smart, totally funny, and genuinely nice. While we were talking, I noticed the familiar configuration, as well as the presence of biscuits and beer... When we finished, I jumped on the bench and got to live the dream and be Bons...

Filmmakers in Hawaii

Still at the Hawaii Film fest... I've seen four movies so far and interviewed three directors in three days. Not bad.



Here's The Inheritance director Romeo Candido and actor Darrel Gamotin. They're Pinoy-Canadians who are shaking up the Filipion film scene. Last night, I saw them both eat loco moco at 2:00 a.m.!



Satoshi Kon is the mind behind Perfect Blue, Millenium Actress, and most recently Paprika! I interviewed him without getting to the movie yet, but am stoked to see it tonight!



Sorry, no pic of Nia Dinata, but nothing's perfect. Well, maybe not.

Ice baby

The famous Waiola shave ice shop on Oahu

Wendy, small cone

Martin, custard bowl

Olene, small cone

Robocon, red bean and mochi bowl

Jade Food HQ

Whoa! Boxes and boxes of crack seed, ready to ship...

7-Eleven

Hawaii's 7-11's have veggie musubi! Too bad the Green Tea Slurpee machine was busted, though.

Film Fest First Day

We flew into Hawaii on the same plane as Kevin Smith. I was relieved to see he was dressed like a fanboy, and not wearing an Armani suit or something. He had three LV bags, which was fine since they were probably filled with action figures! A driver picked us regular guests up and let us in on the snacks which were being delivered. Is that aloha in action or what?


The Hawaii Film Fest doesn't mess around when it comes to hooking up guests. We're at the Sheraton Surfrider, which is right on Waikiki Beach. It's super nice, with rocking chairs facing the street and a pool facing the surf. It seems like Japanese couples are getting married left and right.


We went to the Hospitality Suite at a nearby Sheraton, and in addition to our passes, there were nice helpers, cookies, and a killer view. No, the gift bags weren't Luis Vuitton, but they had some nice Stella Artois mints in them.





Oh yeah, there were also movies... We went to two screenings tonight. Nia Dinata's smart and stylish study of polygamy, Love for Share, was packed, and the question-and-answer session was shockingly un-bad. The shorts program was well-represented but we split before directors including softball ringer Eric Byler because we were beat. Tomorrow will include features from Pen-Ek Ratanaruang and Ishii Katsuhito.


The place was packed with movie people from all over the place. Above are my new friends/journalists from Singapore and the Philippines, as well as HIFF's own Christian Razukas, who's been helping me set up interviews that you'll read in upcoming issues of GR.

More soon...

HIFF!

The Louis Vuitton Hawaii International Film Festival is going on right now...

Asano Tadanobu (above, in Pen-Ek Ratanaruang's Invisible Waves) won't be there, but I will. See you there!

Red light district

Years ago, my friend Adam Pfahler gave me this advise: "Take the 101 home, you won't regret it." I ignored him and took the 5 from San Francisco to L.A., only to be denied at the Grapevine due to snow. After sitting in the car for hours, turning back, taking another route, and skidding around in snow, we wound up going to some gross motel before waiting in line again to cross over into L.A.



Sunday's drive from Oakland wasn't quite so bad. First, cars stopped. Then drivers turned off their engines. Finally, people stepped out and climbed hills on either side of the road to see what the heck was going on. A pick-up truck had rolled and its trailer (for dune buggies or something) landed exactly perpindicular to the flow of traffic. We were a couple hundred feet behind the mess.



Being stuck brought out the best and worst of humanity. Some people started chatting, discussed the situation, and offered water to old folks. Others cursed the world and tried driving on the shoulders only to add to the gridlock. It probably didn't help that we were downwind of a cattle yard. At least carnivores wouldn't have to resort to Donner Party tactics.

After an hour or so, the carnage was pulled to the side of the road. We were back in our own little worlds, on our way to our individual destinations.

Election time in November

Holy crap, Giant Robot is presenting Election at the AFI Fest in L.A.! Don't miss this cance to see Johnnie To's amazing crime movie with Simon Yam and Tony Leung Kar-Fei on the big screen. It's playing on Friday, November 10 and Sunday, November 12 at the Arclight in Hollywood.



Also, don't miss the sequel, Triad Election, as well as The Banquet starring Zhang Ziyi with GR homie Daniel Wu, the Pang Bros' Re-Cycle, Curse of the Golden Flower with Chow Yun-Fat and Gong Li, Kim Ki-Duk's Time, and much more!

Earache my eye

Crap! When unloading a palate of new mags from a truck last week, I dropped a couple boxes onto a dolly that proceeded to box me on the ear. It hurt like crazy, but I just powered through. Later on, I noticed that it turned crazy black and blue--much gnarlier than in the photo below...



It still looks bad, but luckily I'm in dire need of a haircut so no one can tell.
I was worried about getting cauliflower ear, but Eric said I don't have to worry about it. That would have happened immediately...

Taco trucks and wedding bells

Wendy and I drove to Oakland this weekend to attend the wedding of her old co-worker and friend, Julia. We hit the road early and got there around lunchtime (no thanks to an aborted breakfast at Denny's--what were we thinking going there anyway?). I knew we'd have to eat something fast because Chinese banquets have tons of great food for everyone--except for vegetarians. While Wendy was getting ready, Ant said he'd take me to "the best taco truck in Oakland." How could I resist?







We drove around a little trying to find it. I told Ant that if he wasn't sure where it would be at that hour, we could go elsewhere. Then he explained that it's on blocks and doesn't really move. When we arrived, I saw that there were actually three taco trucks parked in a lot that also included fixed seats and bathrooms. On weekends, guys sell bootleg CDs and stuff, too, Ant said. Wendy and Ant got two fish tacos each (at $1.25) and I got a veggie burrito ($4) to go!



Everything was quite good, and Ant shared some fruit with us, too. Holy crap, one of the grapes was being devoured by its own vine. Weird!



The wedding was a nice church ceremony with Filipino ice creams. The banquet was at a restaurant called Legendary Palace. You probably already know all about it, but Ant says it's the "best Chinese banquet facility in Oakland." Wow, we were being treated left and right.





I read an article about this Belfast cider once. I guess it's an institution at Bay Area Chinese banquets. Funny, since Watsonville's own Martinelli's is not far away...





The food looked great, but as expected, I had to cut out when they started serving to find something meatless. A quick stroll around the block revealed Balê, a French coffee shop that had vegetarian sandwiches for $2.25. It was excellent--just what I needed to tide me over until coconut mochi and sesame ball desserts and cake.







With me not eathing meat and three empty seats, Anthony got a load of killer leftovers!



Congrats, Julia and Noel!

Am not Pei

Close call. I was listening to the Lakers game on the radio and I thought they were playing the Suns at the I.M. Pei Center in San Diego. That would be insane--not just because architects don't usually sponsor sports arenas, but because it's butt ugly! Why would a world-famous building visionary want a piece of that?



When I turned on KCAL, the painted court revealed the arena to be the ipayOne Center. Whew. All was okay, and the Lakers even won with Walton, Farmar, Odom, and Bynum all turning in strong performances...

GRcast

Giant Robot is covered in a magazine-centered podcast from the always-awesome The Comics Interpreter!



Thanks for the link, Ken!

Curse me I'm Irish

The Pogues play the Wiltern tonight... Wendy wasn't super hot on the idea of going, but I explained that Joe Strummer sang for them when Shane MacGowan was in rehab and Ted Leo + Pharmacists cover their songs. What else can be said?



Yes, the band plays drunken, Irish folksy songs, but there's politics and soul bubbling under the debauchary and fueling the anger, sadness, and energy. A most excellent way to start a weekend...

Curses

Just saw a screening of Curse of the Golden Flower. The title sounds like a Sherlock Holmes mystery, but really it's the new Zhang Yimou flick starring Chow Yun-Fat and Gong Li! (It also has Jay Zhou, for you kids out there...) Supposedly, the version we saw is incomplete. The subtitles are being redone and the orchestral soundtrack by Tan Dun was missing. But I liked the raw drum sound and have been brought up on bad subtitles, so I couldn't tell if they were messed up...


No lengthy review because I don't have the time right now, but let's just say that it's beautiful, fun, and tragic. It's kind of like a Shakespearean court drama with epic martial arts! Will Joe Sixpack or Art School Girl be able to handle mix of the arthouse style and ninjas? I don't know, but you should check it out on the big screen. The colors are incredible, and royal family's dysfunction will giveyou a lot to think about. It'll take a moment to get used to Gong Li as a mom and Chow Yun-Fat with a beard, but you'll get the hang of it--just like you did with Spock!

No footbinding

I bought new running shoes the other week... My first pair of Mizunos and they feel good. They don't have space-age design like Nikes or even Euro style like adidas--they just look like shoes for jocks--but I'm not on any runway so that's okay.



It was also the first time I shopped at a specialty shop since buying my first pair of running shoes (dayglo Nike Pegasus from Top to Top in Westwood, in 1988 or so). The guy who helped me asked for my size was and then suggested I get a full size larger. WTF? I know feet expand when you exercise, but damn.

At first they felt a little clumsy, but I've gotten used to it. I wonder if my little toe nails won't get scrunched now?

Lowrider

Tonight, the Mets and Cards are playing Game 7 of the NLCS. Winner goes to the World Series. Yesterday, I went to Dodger Stadium to get a refund for a NCLS scenario that never happened. It was a much different vibe than when I waited in line to get tickets. This time there were no wristbands, lottery, A Martinez asking trivia questions, or reporter from the local Chinese paper asking me if I was there because of rookie hurler Hung Chi Kuo--just me in a mostly empty parking lot.



After I got the credit reimbursed on my card, the guy behind the counter said, "We're going to the World Series next year!" I hope so, but we'll see. I drove away, watching the murals of Nomar Garciaparra, Eric Gagne, and other players that we'll probably lose to free agency fade into my rear-view mirror. Another memorable season ends.

Live Nudity!

Last night I went to see Nudity, a psychedlic rock/freak-out band from Olympia. My friend Chris Sutton plays righteous guitar and sometimes sings for the group.



There are plenty of bands with two drummers, but this one really utilizes them. When you see the two dudes looking over at each other, it's like they're keeping each other going--not letting the other slow down, stop for rest, or slack during the crazy, extended guitar jams. The band only has two CD-Rs out now, and they're raw and awesome. Nudity makes stops at Stork Club in Oakland tonight and a house party in Nevada City tomorrow, so say hi and buy them in person.



Did I mention that it was Marie Antoinette night at the club? Scattered around Safari Sam's were free buttons, mini bottles of nail polish, and pink feather quills/pens with Sofia Coppola movie's logo on it!



Chris also handed me the new 7" single from another one of his bands, Spider and the Webs. I listened to it this morning, and it's great drony pop with vocals by Tobi Vail of Bikini Kill fame. (I'll write a longer review for the next GR...) He says there's a new C.O.C.O. in the works and something new from Dub Narcotic Sound System isn't out of the question...

Not dunces

One of the best things about having GR stores is that we can host visitors there. Really, no one wants to see our editorial office because it's a sty! This morning I received a phone call from illustrator extraordinaire Gary Baseman, saying that he was showing around some friends from Asia. I skated down to say hi, and here they are.



On the left is Sam. I didn't get his last name, but he owns the Hi-Life shop chain, which has more then 1,000 locations! Did you know that Taiwan is the convenience-store capital of the world? Thanks to guys like him, you can get a canned drink, toilet paper, or whatever you want whenever you need it. Next in line is Kristy Chu, noteworthy artist, stuffed animal collector, and a director at Taiwan's Institute of Fashion & Communications Design as well as the honcho of the Taiwan International Animation Festival. Wow! The latter position is how she met Baseman, who is getting a piece of our own Michelle.

If you're on the block tomorrow, keep your eyes peeled. There should be plenty of mre sightings with a birthday scheduled in honor of Sawtelle local and store regular, Fabian...

Mystery fruit

What the heck are these fruits? We got these from an older couple--Chinese husband and Japanese wife. Or is it vice versa? Either way, we don't know what they're called in English. They're creamy like avocados and subtly sweet like a pear. You peel and cut them sort of like mangoes. Most of them have one round seed in the middle and flatter ones on the side.





They're super tasty; we just don't what what to call them!

Garden party

Not far from the Sepulveda Dam and somehow related to a water reclamation plant is a huge Japanese garden. Seriously, it's awsome with rock gardens, slated bridges, and a full-on teahouse. Right in the Valley--who knew?





What makes it even cooler is that the traditional landscape and structures contrast with the reclamation plant wich is totally futuristic--almost like something out of The Planet of the Apes.



The water is packed with koi, but most of them are black. Is that due to the reclaimed water or is it just survival of the fittest?

The premises are open for strolling Monday through Thursday afternoons, as well as Sundays.

Malolo

I can't afford a new snowboard. But if it were in my budget, I'd totally get this one...



Check out the Thomas Campbell art! Is it as good as the Geoff McFetridge ones from a couple seasons ago?

K-town Be-Bye

Last night Aaron Hartman was visiting from Portland. You might have seen him play stand-up bass with Old Time Relijun or, in the past, IQU. He's an awesome musician, and he's a good friend, too. He was in town because he's going to be the road manager for Lavender Diamond, which happens to include my friends Ron and Becky and is going on tour with The Decemberists. Wendy and I picked up Aaron at Ron and Becky's place. If Aaron's bio-diesel-powered van can make it up to their hilltop home in Echo Park, it should be safe for the road. Ron and Becky still had to pack, so we told them we'd bring back some food.

Wendy and I took Aaron to BCD Tofu House on Wilshire. It's one of the few places in K-Town that is friendly/comfortable for non-Korean speakers like us. We had tons of tasty food, but what happened to the appetizers? No red beans. No entire fried fish for each person. Wendy was bummed because she always gets to eat mine. But later on, she was pleased to announce that the the bathrooms hade dental rinse dispenser! She didn't try it because the directions said it was harmful if swallowed, but I couldn't resist.





Are these common in K-Town? I think more Korean places should do this. Too bad my second shot came out kind of blurry, but some old dude walked in and I felt weird about having a camera out in the men's room.

Afterward, we went to Pinkberry on Sixth Street. My second Pinkberry outing in a week! I hate to admit it: Their dish is really good, and the Korova Milk Bar-meets-Starbucks atmosphere is all right. This location was all young Koreans dressed like they're going to a club. The Melrose one was trendy Australian tourists. We were probably underdressed (not wearing black) but whatever. The plan is for 30 of them to open all over the country in the next year, so consider yourself warned.





Finally, Wendy, Aaron, and I returned to Becky and Rons's pad with their dinner. Apparently, BCD is infamous for luring touring vegetarian bands expecting a house built from nothing but tofu and then disappointing them. But the Lavender Diamond singer and drummer are omnivores, and seemed pretty happy with it. Ron's seafood soon-tofu had a shrimp that had a bonus sac full of eggs! Extra protein?



Wendy and I stuck around for a while, talking to Ron and Becky about their secret ulterior motives for touring (certain vibrations = mind control), Ron's Lowly Worm doll, and Becky's favorite stickers. Anything for them but start packing! Meanwhile, Aaron was checking email and getting to business. It must be hard being on the other side, from just being one of the guys in the band to being the responsible one who has to get everyone on the road on time, etc.





Go see Lavender Diamond on tour over the next few weeks. It's a pretty awesome bill and they're all super nice.

Sandy Eggos

The San Diego Asian Film Festival started last night. Crap! Last year I was invited to attend the opening banquet and moderate a panel. This year I found out about it when my friend Dustin asked me if I was going. And then our intern Janet did the same. Am I really the last person to find out?

My being used up and blown off aside, the folks at SDAFF are super cool and they have a great lineup this year. If you're in San Diego and are looking for something to do, check out these flicks:



Little Fish features Dustin Nguyen as the junkie ex-boyfriend of Cate Blanchett. Hugo Weaving and Sam Neil are also in this intense, smart drama from Australia.



Train Man is kind of like a Japanese version that Bananarama "Shy Boy" video except that it's about an otaku getting a makeover with help from his online friends instead of a nerd getting help from a trio of new-wave babes.



A Bittersweet Life may be the be most straightforward gangster movie ever. No twists or surprises--it's simply done perfectly with the right balance of cool style and intense violence. From Korea.



The Great Yokai War is Takashi Miike's equivalent of The Princess Bride or The Neverending Story. More like live-action Miyazaki or even HR Pufnstuff than Audition or Ichi the Killer.

There are way more movies, too. I just don't know them. One of the best things about film fests is that you get to see movies that you know nothing about. Take a chance and you might be surprised. Also, there's a Battlestar Galactica talk with Grace freaking Park, a celebrity panel thingy with Dustin, and news diva/Asian-American film patron/saint Lee Ann Kim... Check it all out at the festival's site.

Evil Knievel

A few days too late for Valentine's Day. What was the studio thinking? Johnny Blaze rides on February 17, 2007.

Peek-a-Busaba

If you haven't been to Busaba yet, it's a fairly new vegetarian/vegan Thai place on Melrose, just west of La Brea. People say that the restaurant's name means "women" in Thai. But it's not like the infamous Chan Dara chain, where businessmen go for lunch because they want to be served by nubiles in tight clothes. It's more like the joint is owned an operated by three women. Last night, we had take-away from there and the only dude we saw was washing dishes.



Like a lot of veggie Thai places in L.A., you can select just about any type of fake meat to go into your noodles, fried rice, curry, or specialty dish. I think the faux ingredients are unusually good--not like the soggy, freeze-dried crap or chewy canned stuff at all. The won-ton soup is excellent, with tasty veggie shrimp and a powerful broth. There are also some dishes that you won't find anywhere else. The seaweed rolls weren't what I expected at all; they're deep-fried seaweed wrapped around tofu and vegetables. Last night we tried the veggie fish with a sweet chili and cashew sauce. Crunchy with bite. Yes, the Pad Thai is good, too.



People complain about a lack of parking in that neighborhood, but we've never had problems finding spots right around the corner. Some people want more food for their dollar, but the prices aren't outrageous--maybe $10/person--and I consider the dishes to be more than a couple steps above what we usually have delivered. I'll take quality over quantity any day, and most of you will probably go to Pinkberry for dessert afterwards anyway!



Why a place like Pinkberry (which is admittedly quite good) is packed with trendies while across the street a joint with so much soul sits practically empty is one of those mysteries of life. I can see myself adding Busaba to the list of resturants to visit regularly just because I feel personally obligated to help it stay in business. Check it out for yourself and see what Blogger is hiding from you in the messed-up pics...

On a good night...

Rocket from the Crypt's Halloween concerts in San Diego were legendary. Somehow, Speedo and company always rocked even harder than their usual gargantuan level, and the crowd always wore the best costumes. (My brother, sister-in-law, and I most recently dressed as Zankou Chicken staffers!) So it was fitting, awesome, and a little sad when the